Vieilles Vignes Part 2: The Wines

These 2 examples of "old vine" wines embody the descriptives in my previous post:

2008 Gerard Tremblay Chablis Vieilles Vignes
Medium gold. Fragrant lemon/lime scent, with "wet limestones" (mineral presence) with a smoky element.Deep, vibrant fruit profile (with some pineapple and other tropical fruits) intermingled with complex mineral flavors. Long finish (especially for a young white wine).

2009 Domaine Mardon Quincy Tres Vieilles Vignes

Pale gold. Lemon peel/rind, fresh cut grass notes (typical of the Sauvignon Blanc grape). Round but balanced , with robust flavors- grapefruit, parsley, and a mineral chalk component. Good acidity. A hint of lime as well. The mineral sensation lingers in the corners of the mouth. Also a slate and limestone nuance. A slightly oily (viscous) mouthfeel. A moderate to long finish.

So based on the"Vieilles Vignes Theory", these 2 young wines had the complexity and depth that come about from the older vines and everything they contributed to each of the 2 varietals.

A Tale Of "Vieilles Vignes" (Old Vines)_Part 1 Of...

So if you have not heard of this term (or even if you have), I will break it down for you:

"Vieilles Vignes" (France) literally means- Old Vines. Now here is where the fun begins:

First of all, why would old vines even be indicated on a wine label? Well in principle, older vines tend to yield more concentrated grape bunches, with less berries and less water content per berry at the end of the growing season. And furthermore, older vines have longer roots which have burrowed further down in the soil to obtain nourishment and have even reached into the sub-soil of each particular vineyard. In theory, this would seem to signify that the grapes are being nourished by water that has been exposed to all content that exists in that particular vineyard's geological sub-soil makeup.

So this would typically indicate that wines produced with the specific "VV" designation would exhibit:

- more distinct, concentrated flavors than their "non VV" bottles

- a more complex flavor profile with nuances of the sub-soil content of each particular vineyard...

More to follow... with 2 examples...

Favorite TJ Pinot Noir... at the moment

So after the past entries you've read (and knowing that I am very partial to PNs that exhibit Burgundian characteristics). here is my most current observation:

I had been extremely impressed with the "VintJS" offering last year (2009 into 2010)*(please see my previous posting)*

Nothing had replaced it ( and as you well know, I had tried extensive selections at that approximate price point). Then, the "new VintJS" Pinot Noir was released- the "first offering" was not comparable to the VintJS I had previously, and then... several weeks later, they released another PN from a "different location"- slightly better, but not up to the enjoyable qualities of the previous vintage.

So here comes my best recommendation from their existing stock:

Hahn Winery 2009 Pinot Noir Monterey

Appearance:
Lightish red color with a pale rim (if you need any explanation about the rim or anything else, please feel free to contact me)

On the nose:
Ripe, spicy presentation, with fresh berry (straw/blue) and a dark cherry component mixed with subtle earth notes(fresh soil, forest floor, etc.) with some fresh mint. Somewhat of an burning (alcohol) sensation on the outer nasal rim (yikes, this sounds weird).

On the Palate:

Fresh, ripe fruit with a "soil" component (along with tobacco herbs) and subtle, dark cherry along with a subtle tannic presence.

This Pinot Noir shines, as it displays a salute to it's Burgundian attributes, while presenting an accessible and affordable option to marketplace comparable red burgundies/pinot noirs.

Trader Joe's NYC revisited

Well, as you may know from my previous entries, I am perpetually on the lookout for "affordable wines that you would not be ashamed to take home"(or something like that), occasionally breaking away for some personal "cellar updates" (a shrinking cellar nonetheless). I have been away from "blog land" for too long, but now I will try to keep the entries flowing. Here is the first of a few "TJNYC" reviews I plan to post (believe it or not, some of the initial wines that impressed me from TJ are still available in NYC- updated vintages, etc.):

2 Cali Cab Bargains-

2008 "Trader Joe's" Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon- purple/ruby color with pale rim; nose filled with ripe blueberry/cherry fruit, with eucalyptus/alcohol element, some tar; very smooth on the palate- fruit forward with slight tannic acid and fresh herbs, currant (jam preserves); medium body with pleasant aftertaste. Priced appropriately at $10, with a good bottle presentation (not the Chuck Shaw austere look...)

2009 Alexander and Fitch Winery, Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon- dark garnet with pale rim; deep, spicy, ripe fruit (cherries, blueberries), with a hint of mint and allspice, slight tobacco leaf; all carries through on the palate with some acidic side palate presence (tannins), but ripe fruit in the foreground with cinnamon and clove nuances. Does not really continue past the front to mid palate, but flavors linger. At $7, a wine that is worth trying- and may fill out with time (still maturing- within 1-3-years).

Two 2007 Napa Cabs on the market

Two 2007 Napa Valley California Cabernet Sauvignons- similar price range ($12-15 per bottle): Annabella "Special Selection" Michael Pozzan Winery, from Oakville, and Avalon from similar plots in Napa (Oakville, Rutherford, etc.). Both wines exhibit similar attributes- dark cherry, blackberry flavors interspersed with silky tannins and a kiss of new oak. Very elegant at this level. If anything sets them apart, the Annabella seems more refined and integrated, whereas the Avalon presents a more complex (Bordeaux blend grapes Merlot, Cabernet Franc, with some Petite Syrah) full-bodied profile. Nice to try them side by side with a suitable food pairing.

Two 1990 Ceretto Barolos- The Test Of Time

Over the years, one of my favorite Barolo producers has been the Ceretto estate- "old school" Nebbiolo crafters. I have had the pleasure of experiencing their 1978. 1979, and 1982 vintages from various vineyards (please see this succinct description offered by my friends at Italian Wine Merchants in New York City). I had been able to purchase some of their 1990 vintage back in the mid-nineties. I laid them down in my upstate wine cellar and tried them in 2001 (11 years old). I wrote reviews of them back then and was sure that more cellar time would reap more sublime benefits. So I purposely opened the two heavyweights (Bricco Rocche Brunate and Prapo) on 10-21-09, without even looking at my previous 2001 notes. So now, these wines were just under 20 years old. I will now write up my tasting notes from both periods:
Brunate
6-1-2001 Notes#26106
Brick red (mature); some browning (even on the edges)
Smoky, peppery fruit (mature)
Steely fruit, with some spice; tannins slightly apparent- dusty, with a charcoal/mineral/sulphur component
Stylish and ready now or within the next 5 to 10 years.
10-21-2009 Notes#26156
Brick red (mature) some rim browning
Stewed fruits, wild field mushrooms, some tar/smoke, "textbook" mature Barolo spices, faint flower and ripe dark plum
Lush fruit (dark berries- black/boysen), still some silky tannins (balance), dark chocolate/licorice, wild game/animal notes; moderate finish
Prapo
6-1-2001 Notes#6482
Darker, deeper red than Brunate; pale brownish near the rim
Spicy, leather, aftershave, game, forest floor, mushroom; rich Nebbiolo fruit w/tannins still present; tar, licorice,plum- complex; mineral/sulphur; more concentrated than Brunate (although not an advantage or detriment); built for longevity (10-15 maybe 20 years), although accessible (some sediment). *
10-21-2009 Notes#6308
Slightly more youthful color than Brunate- less browning, pale rim
Tobacco, menthol, then violets; dark cherry with a medicinal note
Tar/leather/tobacco/zippy berries (raspberry)- no real cherry or dried fruits; moderate tannins (not overbearing); liqueur-like finesse; apricot; elegant
Eplogue
So as you can see, there were some consistencies across the years- these wines probably have the 25-30 year lifeline- a testament to the Ceretto estate and the vintage.

I'm Back

Sorry everyone- I am back with some new entries that are still on the market. I was busier than ever (boring or exciting details will be supplied if you e-ask) but now I am back on the mark. One sidetrack I will divulge is a posting (or 2) on my California friend's site regarding my take on some of the wines offered at our Trader Joe's Wine store here on 14th Street (NYC). Other than that- her we go:

2007 Parducci Pinot Noir (Mendocino CA) ($12)- Brick red/ pale rim; Slight dried fruit with candied cherry and a cocoa element; alcohol burn and leather; Light to medium body with tart PN fruit/ some tannins; Short to moderate finish.

Revised an earlier post of the 2007 Augustinos Pinot Noir Reserva (Chile)- check it here

2005 Chateau Rudelle (St. Emilion/ 100% Merlot) ($10)- Deep red/ pale rim; Graphite with subdued fruit (not ripe?)/ herbal element; Tannic, but not closed- Subdued black currant fruit with a medicinal characteristic- no strong alcohol component; Moderate finish. Not showing a brilliant ripeness which is typical for 2005 Bordeaux...

2007 Simone Special Reserve Merlot (Chile) ($10)- Deep red/ pale rim; Aromatic nose with smoky Merlot fruit and herbal notes; Ripe and easy on the palate with an integration of ripe fruit/spices/graphite ; short to moderate finish- easy drinking.

Many more reviews will follow-